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Joe Brodman's 94 Formula (and other stuff) | home
 N2O
This is what it is all about. Nitrous Oxide. N2O. The big kick in the pants, take no prisoners, destroy the competition juice. Since this is THE most important mod on my car, I will try to go into detail about it.
 This is my kit, except that I sprung for the 15 lb. bottle and all the toys!
So, where do I begin. I spent a lot of time choosing a nitrous kit, and have some pointer for the newbies to it, so READ UP. I looked at a lot of different kits. NOS, Nitrous Works, Compucar, TNT, NX, etc. When I was choosing a system, I couldn't find a lot about TNT. From what I gather now, they are an excellent company, and I may end up using some of their stuff in the future. Compucar and Nitrous Works didn't really have any outstanding features, nor customers that were overly happy with their products. Not saying these are bad products or anything; they just didn't stand out in the crowd.
NOS. Let me get this out in the open. NOS does N-O-T stand for Nitrous Oxide. N2O is the chemical formula. NOS stands for Nitrous Oxide Systems. This is a really popular company, but there are several reasons I did not buy their kit. First off, they only offer a dry kit for the LT1.
A dry kit uses the fuel injectors to pump extra fuel into the motor when running the juice. This sounds good on paper, but not in practice. It also requires an inline fuel pump, increasing the cost of the NOS system $200 - $300 dollars more than a comparable wet kit system. Further, about 70% of the time, people also need to upgrade their fuel injectors to handle the extra fuel. Wet kits mix fuel and N2O and inject into the intake manifold. Wet kits are easier to tune than dry kits, and cost a whole lot less. Also, most people don't trust a dry kit over 150 shot. Good enough reason for me not to own one!
Another downfall of the NOS kit is their lousy solenoids. The standard ones are really small. It would cost an extra $200 or so to get a decent set of NOS solenoids. I could have bought the kit for the TPI cars, but why, when NX has a cheaper and better kit out there! Also, the NX Shark Nozzle (a fogger nozzle) is said to be the best nozzle in the business for proper fuel / N2O atomization.
For my install, I'll cover a couple of the simple things. The nozzle is in the MAF sensor housing. It points right behind the sensors, so it won't mess them up. I can get away w/ putting it there because I have a Ram-Air setup, which allows the MAF Sensor to be in a direct line w/ the throttle body. The bottle is mounted where the spare tire and jack once sat. My switches are in the ashtray in my center console, and look pretty sweet.
 Along with my NX kit, I have some extra stuff.
- NX Bottle heater. It is the only heater out there (that I know of) that uses bottle pressure rather than temperature to control when it is on or off. This is much more accurate way to obtain the 900 - 1000 psi the system needs.
- NOS "Remote Bottle Opener" - Unfortunately, the NX true bottle opener wasn't available when I installed my system. The NX opener replaces the bottle's knob, and actually opens and closes the valve. My NOS heater is just a big, inline solenoid. But it isn't good to have constant pressure in the system, so the opener is a must.
 - MSD Window switch. Using special "pills," I can control what RPM range the juice can run at. This is very important. At too low of an RPM, detonation can occur, causing major engine damage. At high RPM's, if the juice is running and the factory rev-limiter kicks in, which cutoff fuel. Lack of fuel while running nitrous will cause a severe lean condition. Let's just say I want to keep my motor
- N2O Pressure gauges. I have one that is for the bottle heater and the other is my Autometer in my dash.
- Fuel Pressure Safety Switch. This currently isn't hooked up, but will be for next season. I had an NX one, but the heat (I am guessing) from the exhaust manifolds destroyed the rubber seals on it. I have another FPSS sitting in a box. What this does is cut off the juice if the fuel pressure gets too low, preventing a lean condition when running the bottle.
- A bunch of other little crap. Extra line here. Fittings there. More wire here. From my experience, just having the kit is not quite good enough. It almost does the job, but there is always something. And it all adds up!
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